35mm can be a little iffy -- the negs are really small and it seems it always needs more development than 120. Opa has many faces, I like this one, because it seems to capture an unguarded moment
Thursday, June 18, 2009
Sunday, June 14, 2009
Error in Judgement
Using the Unicolor C-41 kit couldn't be simpler. You mix up the developer, blix and stabilizer, feeling all the while a bit like a mad scientist. You draw a bath for your chems in your kitchen sink well above the target 102 degrees fahrenheit, let the chems come to temp, pre-soak using the water once it comes close to the target temp. Pour that out, pour in the developer, process 3.50 mins, pour that back in the bottle, pour in the blix for another 6.50 mins, then wash for 3 mins and stabilize for 1 min. I've been keeping the developer at 102, but have not worried where the blix, water or stabilizer are - just so long as they are pretty warm (they've been in the bath with the developer, so they'll be close).
I think, in photography, there are those who've done it and know what they are talking about, those who do not know, but pretend they do, and those attached to rules to the exclusion of all else.
I want to be in the first group.
This image is the result of an error in the mechanics of processing, not in the chemistry of it.
I think, in photography, there are those who've done it and know what they are talking about, those who do not know, but pretend they do, and those attached to rules to the exclusion of all else.
I want to be in the first group.
This image is the result of an error in the mechanics of processing, not in the chemistry of it.
Friday, May 29, 2009
Iron Horse Flower
So, I'm going to throw my hat into the ring on "Panthermic 777' from BPi Industries. I got mine through frugalphotographer.com.
It's friggin awesome. I prefer Ilford Delta Pro 100 as my universal B&W film. I mis-tagged the developing time, as it's not 10 second agitations, but 5 second...
I'm refreshing every 5 rolls of 120 film with about 50-60 ml of replenisher. I used two 1/2 gallon Arrowhead Water bottles to make the developer, one half is my developer, 1/2 is my replenisher. I squeeze the bottles to keep air to a minimum. So far so good. The bottles are wrapped in tinfoil to block light, and the level of the developer is marked with a sharpie on the handle (the bottles are translucent).
It's friggin awesome. I prefer Ilford Delta Pro 100 as my universal B&W film. I mis-tagged the developing time, as it's not 10 second agitations, but 5 second...
I'm refreshing every 5 rolls of 120 film with about 50-60 ml of replenisher. I used two 1/2 gallon Arrowhead Water bottles to make the developer, one half is my developer, 1/2 is my replenisher. I squeeze the bottles to keep air to a minimum. So far so good. The bottles are wrapped in tinfoil to block light, and the level of the developer is marked with a sharpie on the handle (the bottles are translucent).
I heated the Arrowhead water to simmering, then added packet 'A' off heat. It really didn't get totally dissolved, so I put it back on heat and stirred it on simmer until dissolved. packet 'B' was just the water at room temperature, shaken, not stirred. Then 'A' added to 'B' and topped up to make the full amount -- 1 gallon.
It's a lot less temp sensitive than Ifolsol 3 (my go-to developer until I fell in love with 777). I love Edwal FG7, but it still is not able to hold a candle to 777.
It's weird looking stuff, a slightly brown red liquid, black bits of silver(?) floating in it. It's about as opaque as lightly brewed tea. Brewed tea with tea leaves in it.
Pushing it (one stop is all I've done) works just fine. I use the push numbers at digitaltruth.com - for one stop(100->200ISO) i multiply the time by 1.50.
You can be imprecise with it, which is good, cause I like 'about' better than 'exactly.'
I do fill my tank to the top each time. This is my 'large tank' although that is debatable. When I am on a replenish cycle (every 5th roll) I pour the replenisher into the bottle, the developer I just used into a container, then slowly add it back into the bottle after use up to my sharpie line. Not scientific, but so far it is working beautifully.
The developer started to show its glowy quality right off the bat, but improved after two or three rolls.
I'm a 6x7 MF fan, 645 is great too. Not a big fan of 35mm. But that being said, HP5+ 35mm looks great in 777. HP5+ is a little harder looking, but that is true of HP5+ in Ifosol as well. If your style tends towards contrast, start with HP5+ and extra agitation in 777. You'll still get depth, but also contrast.
Mmmm, I'm a total fan of 777. Biggest problem so far is what to do with my Ilfosol and Edwal :)
Check out this photo at full size on flickr, I spotted it, final version (not this one) removes more of the dust, but otherwise, it's straight off the scan.
It's a lot less temp sensitive than Ifolsol 3 (my go-to developer until I fell in love with 777). I love Edwal FG7, but it still is not able to hold a candle to 777.
It's weird looking stuff, a slightly brown red liquid, black bits of silver(?) floating in it. It's about as opaque as lightly brewed tea. Brewed tea with tea leaves in it.
Pushing it (one stop is all I've done) works just fine. I use the push numbers at digitaltruth.com - for one stop(100->200ISO) i multiply the time by 1.50.
You can be imprecise with it, which is good, cause I like 'about' better than 'exactly.'
I do fill my tank to the top each time. This is my 'large tank' although that is debatable. When I am on a replenish cycle (every 5th roll) I pour the replenisher into the bottle, the developer I just used into a container, then slowly add it back into the bottle after use up to my sharpie line. Not scientific, but so far it is working beautifully.
The developer started to show its glowy quality right off the bat, but improved after two or three rolls.
I'm a 6x7 MF fan, 645 is great too. Not a big fan of 35mm. But that being said, HP5+ 35mm looks great in 777. HP5+ is a little harder looking, but that is true of HP5+ in Ifosol as well. If your style tends towards contrast, start with HP5+ and extra agitation in 777. You'll still get depth, but also contrast.
Mmmm, I'm a total fan of 777. Biggest problem so far is what to do with my Ilfosol and Edwal :)
Check out this photo at full size on flickr, I spotted it, final version (not this one) removes more of the dust, but otherwise, it's straight off the scan.
Friday, May 15, 2009
Time Market
Trying out different developers now. This was pushed one stop on Ilford Dellta Pro 100 (pushed to 200 iso) in Edwal FG7 from Calumet. I'm awaiting 777 from Frugal Photographer and a Pyro mix from Photographer's Formulary (via Calumet).
I am currently interested in an older look -- more tonal range, less contrast. There are no real blacks in the picture. The cool thing is there is still recognizable detail all the way down to Zone 2.
I am currently interested in an older look -- more tonal range, less contrast. There are no real blacks in the picture. The cool thing is there is still recognizable detail all the way down to Zone 2.
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
More Street fair
The 4th Ave Winter street fair was the subject of my first experiments with my Mamiya 645J and color film. I had to bump everything a bit as the scans were a bit light (I think). I have a little problem with my light meter. It seems to be one stop bright, so I stop it down (at least at 100 ISO).
Saturday, December 13, 2008
I felt like coloring...
I'm playing with medium format and having a ball. This is a photoshopped MF image that I rather like.
Brightest in the Crowd
Today was the beginning of the 4th Avenue Winter Street Fair. It has been my tradition for a great many years to take this day off to celebrate, to relax, to re-orient myself. Many years ago, we used to take off the Friday because we would stay up late distributing flyers for the Rainbow Planet Coffee house. Dave and Eddy (Allah rest his soul) were so important to us. It is, as I always tell people, a religious holiday for me. Then there was John H...
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